How Fashion Brands influence Costume Design?
Fashion and movies have a long lasting relationship, influencing one another in different ways. The role of fashion brands in movies goes beyond the simple wardrobe choices, they shape characters, influence cultural trends, sometimes becoming central in the plot. Lately there has been an increased production of movies and documentaries about fashion designers and the fashion industry. This is the sign of the crescent interest in fashion as a cultural phenomenon and its impact on society.
This integration of luxury brands into the movies helps directors to communicate the story without the need for excessive dialogue. Furthermore, the role of fashion brands in movies contributes to consumer engagement promoting their brand. When audiences watch their favourite actors wearing haute couture, they are inspired to replicate these looks, increasing the desirability and prestige of certain brands.
With this production of documentaries and movies focused on fashion designers and brands, the audience has the opportunity to discover what’s behind the stories of their favourite brands and fashion designers.
Movies like House of Gucci (2021) show the triumphs and scandals of designers, capturing audiences attention. Likewise, documentaries such as McQueen (2018) and High & Low – John Galliano give an intimate look at the creative process and personal live of designers, and in the case of John Galliano showing the personal and professional struggles, attracting the audience to the world of fashion.
Notebook on Cities and Clothes (1989) is a mix of art and introspection, technology and Japanese culture, where the designer Yoji Yamamoto shows how this intersection and Tokyo influence his creativity.
Notebook on Cities and Clothes (1989) is a mix of art and introspection, technology and Japanese culture, where the designer Yoji Yamamoto shows how this intersection and Tokyo influence his creativity. There are costumes that remain in the memory and become a symbol of the movie such as Fifth Element (1997) with the outrageous and memorable wardrobe by Jean-Paul Gaultier. With his futuristic and extravagant style he created over 1,000 costume sketches and the most famous Leloo’s outfit with white bandages, inspired by his punk spirit. Since the beginning Gaultier was involved in every detail, his theatrical and innovative approach contributed to create unforgettable movie costumes.
Sometimes the relationship between director and brand is so strong that a garment or an accessory become part of the personality of the character in the movie. In The Royal Tanenbaums (2001) the director Wes Anderson highlights one of the most iconic accessories of all time. Margot Tanenbaum, carries a vintage Birkin bag, reflecting wealth and taste, minimalist style and the elegance of Hermès.
The same elegance of the fashion house Prada creates the nostalgic Italian atmosphere of Castello Cavalcanti (2013), with clean lines, sophisticated and innovative style. The connection between fashion and cinema will also be shown during the next 97th Academy Awards ceremony on March 3th 2025, and the best costume design will be awarded among five nominees, including the movies Conclave and Emilia Pérez. In the movie Conclave the costume designer Lisy Christl designed every piece of the clerical uniforms taking inspiration from Balenciaga during the fashion show Spring/Summer 2020, redefining the volumes, using heavier fabrics, huge shoulders and boxy fit.
Anthony Vaccarello, Saint Laurent’s creative director, produced the movie Emilia Pérez, the choice of costumes shows the change of gender identity. There is a strong influence of the fashion house in the production of costumes, with several pieces of Saint Laurent archive. Like the fitted black jumpsuit with flower print and plunge V neckline and the iconic red velvet suit Anthony Vaccarello played a special role designing the costumes and co-producing Parthenope (Oscar nominated movie 2024).
The wardrobe plays a vital role in this movie who tells the story of Parthenope in the stages of her life. Throughout the narration we can see the costumes evolving with the main character Parthenope. She is wearing clothes that denote the freedom and boldness of youth until adulthood, wearing more structured clothes symbol of maturity like the formal black blazer.
A stunning piece that needs to be mentioned is the dreaming satin maxi dress with precious fringes embellishment. The same process is part of Poor Things (2023) where the costumes reflect the Bella Baxter’s character evolution. From her childlike state wearing excessive puffed sleeves and voluminous dresses, to dark colours and adult clothing silhouette symbol of maturity.
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This intertwined relationship between fashion and movies is strengthened by the collaboration between fashion designers and actors, often making the outfit an essential part of the character’s transformation. Indeed the series TV Sex and The City (1999-2004), where fashion is a central part of the storytelling, had a cultural impact with Fendi introducing its bag to the global audience. The baguette bag worn by the character Carrie Bradshow became the symbol of individuality, luxury, career.
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Stage costumes define traits of the characters personalities, helping the actor to identify with the character he/she is playing and the viewer immerse themselves in the context of the plot, perceiving more the emotions that the actors communicate. This link between fashion and storytelling is crucial in the movies and is capable of transporting the viewer to different eras and contexts making the audience dream, which is precisely the aim of fashion.
28/02/2025
